BOSPHORUS
A stay in Istanbul is not complete
without the traditional and
unforgettable boat excursion up the
Bosphorus, the winding strait that
separates Europe and Asia. Its shores
offer a
 delightful
mixture of past and present, grand
splendor and simple beauty. Modern
hotels stand next to yali (shore-front
wooden villas), marble palaces abut
rustic stone fortresses, and elegant
compounds neighbor small fishing
villages. The best way to see the
Bosphorus is to board one of the
passenger boats that regularly zigzag
along the shores. You embark in Eminonu
and stop alternately on the Asian and
European sides of the strait. The round
trip excursion, at a very reasonable
cost, takes about six hours. If you wish
a private voyage, you can contact one of
the agencies which specialize in
organizing day or night mini-cruises.
During the journey you pass in front of
the magnificent Dolmabahce Palace;
farther along rise the green parks and
imperial pavilions of Yildiz Palace. On
the edge of this park, on the coast,
stands the Ciragan Palace now restored
as a grand hotel. Refurbished in 1874 by
Sultan Abdulaziz, it stretches for 300
meters along the Bosphorus shore, its
ornate marble facades reflecting the
swiftly moving water. At Ortakoy,the
next stop, artists gather every Sunday
to exhibit their works in a streetside
gallery. The variety of people create a
lively scene; sample a delicious bite
from one of the street vendors.
Overshadowing the traditional
architecture of the village, the
Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's
largest suspension bridges links Europe
and Asia.
 The
beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just
past the bridge on the Asian side.
Behind the palace rises Camlica Hill,the
highest point of Istanbul. You can drive
here to admire the magnificent panorama
of Istanbul as well as the beautiful
landscaped gardens. On the opposite
shore, the wooden Ottoman villas of
Arnavudkoy contrast with the luxurious
modern apartments of neighboring Bebek.
A few kilometers farther out, facing
each other across the straits like
sentries guarding the city, stand the
fortresses of Rumeli Hisari and Anadolu
Hisari. The Goksu Palace, sometimes
known as Kucuksu Palace graces the Asian
shore next to the Anadolu Hisari. The
recently completed second link between
the two continents, the Fatih Sultan
Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway
just past the two fortresses.
From Duatepe Hill, on the European side,
you can admire the magnificent panorama
of the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below
Duatepe, the beautiful Emirgan Park with
its delightful pavilions bursts with
color when the tulips bloom in the
spring. Opposite on the Asian shore is
Kanlica, a fishing village now a favored
suburb for wealthy Instabilities. Crowds
gather in the restaurants and cafes
along its shores to sample its famous
yoghurt. Shortly after Kanlica,at
Cubuklu,the Hidiv Palace emerges from a
tranquil grove. Now a hotel, the palace
buzzes with the activity of concerts and
conferences. Past the Hidiv Palace, the
Beykoz Korusu (Abraham Pasa) Korusu
Woods are a popular retreat. Complete
with cafes and restaurants you can enjoy
the delighiful views and clear fresh
air. On the European side, at Tarabya
Bay, yachts seem to dance at their
moorings. The coast road bustles with
taverns and fish restaurants from
Tarabya until the charming villages ot
Buyukdere and Sariyer. A little further
on the narrow strait widens and
disappears into the Black Sea.
 The
Golden Horn, a horn-shaped estuary,
divides European Istanbul. One of the
best natural harbors in the world, the
Byzantine and Ottoman navies and
commercial shipping interests were
centered here. Today, lovely parks and
promenades line the shores. In the
setting sun, the water shines a golden
color. At Fener, a neighborhood midway
up the Golden Horn, whole streets of old
wooden houses and churches date from
Byzantine times. The Orthodox Patriarchy
resides here. Eyup, a little further up,
reflects the Ottoman style of vernacular
architecture. Cemeteries sprinkled with
dark cypress trees cover the hillsides.
It is always busy here with pilgrims
coming to the tomb of Eyup in the hope
that their prayers will be granted. The
Pierre Loti Cafe atop the hill
overlooking the shrine is a wonderful
place to enjoy the tranquility of the
view. |
